Spinnerbaits, otherwise known as �blades� by professionals and amateurs around the bass fishing world are known as one of the most versatile and challenging lures to be on the market for the past 30 years. In today�s high priced and fancy market of flashy lures that truly catch more the eye of the angler than the eye of the bass, the spinnerbait has maintained almost its original shape and design from its inception. Changing its materials to withstand the knocks and bumps that the strongest fish and strongest angler could ever give one of these baits, the tackle companies have had to create materials that hold up to all the abuse that both fish and anglers could ever put it through.

From the start, spinnerbaits were made of stainless steel and had a "close-pin" type frame. The wire was of one diameter with anywhere from one to two blades of various shapes and sizes to create different flashes and vibrations desired. Manufacturers then started to try various other shapes of wire and they created the �r-bend� which helps balance the bait better. The �r-bend� allows the bait to swim more natural and balanced without turning over like "out of balance" baits do. After the �r-bend� was developed, companies began experimenting with variations of smaller wire diameter that allows the bait to vibrate on a greater level. With thinner wire toward the end by the blades, the wire shaft begins to vibrate making a squeaking noise that the fish can hear and home in on. Some companies are currently experimenting with spring wire. Spring wire is a wire variation between a stainless wire and titanium. While the stainless wire will bend and have to be retuned after each fish, the titanium wire, which is a little thicker and has a sound of its own, snaps back and maintains its original shape and does not break or bend after numerous fish. The experimental spring wire has its own vibration and it has some snap back capabilities along with better durability than standard stainless wire.

New to the market last year were the titanium wire spinnerbaits introduced by Terminator, but actually manufactured by the Horizon Lure Company located in Douglas, AZ. The titanium spinnerbait is a hit on the market due to its durability plus there is no need to tune the bait after each fish. With the wire being a little thicker than stainless wire, there is a little less vibration than you have with the stainless wire. One of the problems with these baits was that with titanium wire being virtually unbreakable, initially there was no way to change the tandem blade on the arm. There was essentially no way to open the loop on the end of the arm. This year Horizon Lure Company is producing for Terminator a sleeve on the arm of the spinnerbait that allows for the changing of the blade. This clip is very useful and will allow for many combinations of baits to be designed by many different fishermen.

Hawg Caller Baits, located in Union, South Carolina, has been making spinnerbaits for many years. Hawg Caller uses a thin wire that allows for maximum vibration and a well-balanced bait. Like some spinnerbait companies, Hawg Caller, in their building of baits, paints the neck of the bait with an orange-red color, which represents wounded bait. Hawg Caller also incorporates different blade combinations into their line of product. They are one of a few companies that make a tandem bait with an Indiana blade and a willow combination, instead of the Colorado and a willow combination manufactured by most companies. The different combinations allows for a different vibration which in turn makes for a different look in the water to the fish. Hawg Caller was the first company, to my knowledge, to produce a spinnerbait that incorporates triple willow leaf blades. Now, there are numerous other companies that have come out with a model this year with three or four willow leaf blade combinations.

Let�s look at the many different blade types that are available and what the differences are for each type. There are Colorado blades, willow leaf blades, Indiana blades, and turtleback blades. The Colorado blade is a blade that is meant to be used in dingy to dirty colored water due to the fact that it gives off the most vibration of all the blades currently on the market. The Colorado blade comes in sizes 00 to 7, 7 being the biggest. Colorado blades are also available in numerous color variations. Next is the Indiana blade which is between a willow leaf and a Colorado blade. The Indiana blade gives off a little less vibration than the Colorado but it gives off a little more flash than the Colorado blade. The Indiana blades also come in sizes from 00 to 7 and they are also available in some colors. The willow leaf is next. It is one of the more popular blades currently on the market today and its shape resembles that of a baitfish. This blade gives off less vibration than any other blade, but it gives off the most flash than all the other blades. These blades are available in sizes from 3 to 7 and they are available in more colors than any of the others. Last is the turtleback blade. This blade appeared about two years ago and gives off a tremendous amount of flash and vibration. This blade has the shape of a turtleback and with its unique shape it has become popular with the fisherman. The turtleback blade is available in sizes from 4 to 7 and only available in nickel and gold colors.

When fishing a spinnerbait, there are many different ways to fish them. There is a method called �slow rolling.� This method can be done with baits ranging from �-oz to 2-oz baits. The bait is thrown out and allowed to sink, you would then turn the handle slow enough so that the blades on the bait barely turn. This gives the bait the look of a dying or wounded baitfish. Another method is when you throw out the bait and you reel the lure very fast to where the lure is making a wake on the surface, you can also allow the lure to blow out of the water occasionally making it look like a baitfish is running away and leaping out of the water. This method is called �burning� a spinnerbait. Another method is where you just reel at a normal speed and pump the rod. This method makes the skirt pulsate and allows the bait to come to life. While you are reeling if the lure gets hung up in the grass, just twitch the rod tip pulling the lure free, just don�t pull too hard or the lure will move too fast. When the lure is pulled free from the cover, you have the opportunity to get a reaction strike from the fish. Spinnerbait trailers can be added for extra action and a different look and also don�t forget about a trailer hook, but realize that these additions can change the action of the bait ever so subtle. Spinnerbaits can be fished on line from 10-lb to 25-lb depending on the cover that you are fishing around. There are some braids on the market that you should also give a try. The braids are thinner in diameter and they provide such sensitivity that you will be amazed at what you can feel. Fishing with a braid, you will know when your blades quit turning either from a fish or from weeds stopping the rotation of the blades.

Spinnerbaits have quite a bit of potential for many different situations and areas. There are many different sizes, shapes, wire material, color and blade combinations to choose from. Don�t be afraid to use one and don�t give up on them to early. You have to build as much confidence as possible in the baits that you are using. This means that you need to learn as much as possible about each of the baits you fish. The more you learn about their function and variations available, the better your confidence becomes. Your confidence will directly influence your ability to catch fish.

EARLY SPRING BASS FISHING

Early Spring Bass Fishing

Early spring. It's the time of year that every Bass fisherman who is worth his salt looks forward to. The thought of Bass that haven't seen a lure for at least 3 months is enough to stir any of us into a frenzy. Early spring has it's advantages but it can have it's own unique problems as well. Rising water temperatures can send Bass into flurries of activity that are a Bass fisherman's dream come true. But, just as quickly, a stubborn early spring cold front can be a nightmare that puts the fish back into hibernation. The key to successful fishing during this time of year lies in using the proper lures, presenting them properly and using the weather conditions to your advantage. Paying attention to the smallest details can sometimes mean the difference between a respectable day's catch and going home skunked.

Lure Details

When starting out in the spring you can expect water temperatures to be in the low 40 degree range. Most people shiver when they even think of fishing in this kind of cold water . But the temperature should clue you in as to what type of lure is apt to give you the best results. Think small. 3 inch grubs, 4 inch plastic worms of the straight-tail variety and 1/4 oz. Jig & Pig combinations fit the bill. Another consistent producer under these conditions, in shallow bodies of water, is the Rapala original in the 3 1/2 inch & the 4 3/8 inch sizes. Spinnerbaits may also have their place but will not be as consistent as the previously mentioned lures.
With any of the aforementioned baits the key is S-L-O-W. The Bass's metabolism is still in low gear and they aren't in much of a chasing mood. The 3 inch grub should be rigged on a 1/8 oz. jig-head. Preferred colors are smoke, chartreuse or white depending on the clarity of the water you are fishing. This should be retrieved either on a slow lift & drop or by letting it sink to the bottom, lifting it slightly and swimming it back just above the bottom of the lake. With either method a hit will usually just feel like extra weight on the end of the line. When in doubt set the hook. The 4 inch worm is best rigged on a 1/8 oz. Slider type head or Texas style with a light wire 1/0 hook & a 1/16 oz. bullet weight. Color is a matter of personal preference. However, black is always a good starting point. Smoke and pumpkinseed are also proven colors. A slow lift and drop retrieve is the standard method of presentation. Just remember; keep it slow. The 1/4 oz. Jig & Pig combination is known for its ability to attract big fish. But this is not saying that it should necessarily be a big, bulky bait. Trimming the skirt way back and combining it with a #11 Uncle Josh pork frog make it a meal that a big Bass finds hard to resist with its slow fall and natural appearance. Proven color combinations are a black, black & purple, or black & blue jig with a black or brown pork chunk. A slow lift and drop is by far the best method of retrieval. Watching your line is critical. Most bites will be nothing more than a heavy feeling or a slight jump in the line as the jig falls toward the bottom. When a fish hits your jig don't be afraid to cross its eyes when you set the hook. Remember, you have to penetrate the weed guard as well as the tough old mouth of Mr. or Mrs. Bass. The Rapala is simply cast past your target and retrieved slow and steadily. Just fast enough to feel the wobble as it makes its way back to the boat. When a Bass hits you'll not usually have any trouble knowing. Many times, when the other presentations have failed, this one will coax Bass into biting. Productive colors are gold, silver and fire tiger. Be sure, no matter what presentation you choose, that your hooks are sharp.

Line Details

Line size can be an integral part of your presentation. The "light is better" school of thought is not always the way to go. 6 lb. test is probably your best bet for the jig & grub. But the plastic worm and the Rapala perform well on 10 lb. test and the fish don't seem to mind. Fish the Rapala with a #2 snap attached to the front for a livelier, more natural appearance. The Jig & pig are best fished on line in the 14 & 15 lb. test range. The heavier line gives the jig a slower fall thus making it an easier and more tempting target for lethargic Bass. Berkley's Big Game line in the 15 lb. test size and lo-vis green color is hard to beat for durability and invisibility.

Weather Details

The weather is always the controlling factor in early spring fishing. But its not always the enemy. Knowing what to look for in weather patterns can play a big part in being a successful early spring fisherman. A bright, sunny, warm spring day, as nice as it is, is not usually enough to turn the fish on unless the body of water you are fishing is extremely shallow. At least 2 or 3 days of stable weather are needed to really get things moving, although 4 or 5 days are better. By the end of the 3rd day the fish will be starting to feed more aggressively and will be more responsive to any of your presentations. Most fisherman think of cloudy, overcast days as being the ideal conditions for aggressive feeding on the part of the Bass. This is only partly true. A cloudy day , after having 2 or 3 other cloudy days isn't worth a whole lot. A series of cool, cloudy days does nothing but drop the water temperature and put a damper on the Bass's metabolism. The key to the cloudy day theory, especially in the early spring, is to fish the first cloudy day after a warming trend. If you have 4 or 5 warm, sunny days and then a cloudy, rainy day be sure to get out on the lake, even if it means calling in to work and taking the day off. It'll be well worth it. Not only will you increase your chances of catching numbers of fish but your chances of connecting with a genuine hawg increase, in my opinion, by 25-30%. Under these conditions the Jig & Pig and the spinnerbait are probably the best choices to throw. The spinnerbait allows you to cover water quickly and locate active fish. Once you locate fish with the spinnerbait don't be afraid to use the Jig & Pig to tempt the less active, bigger fish. A sincere effort on the part of the angler will generally pay off with some good quality catches without leaving the area where the fish were slamming spinnerbaits. Pay attention to these details. You'll increase your catch and unlock the secrets of early spring fishing.

Like many of my other recent posts, this one comes after so many visitors landed on the site looking for instructions on actually rigging a plastic frog. I've posted reviews on both the Stanley Ribbit and the Zoom Horny Toad. I did not, however, explain how to rig the hook in great detail in either post. It's not much different than rigging a worm Texas rigged. Looking at plastic frogs, you'll notice that the body usually has a slit on the back and sometimes even on the belly molded specifically for hooks. The hooks are made especially for plastic frogs. A screw-lock mechanism is attached to the eye of the hook which is meant to be twisted into the nose of the plastic frog. That screw secures the frog in place on the hook preventing any slipping unlike regular wide gap hooks. Zoom makes the Horny Toad hooks and Stanley makes both a weighted hook and a plain frog hook. I'll explain how to rig both, but I'll primarily be using the Zoom Horny Toad and Horny Toad hooks in my illustrations.

If you plan on using another hook, like an EWG hook without a screw-lock for example, please visit this post on Texas rigging.

Got the frog? Got the hook? Okay. Let's go.



Hold the frog just behind the head with two fingers in one hand. Hold the hook by the eye and the spiral screw in the other hand with two fingers. Position the screw so that it lines up straight with the nose. Press the screw into the nose of the frog and apply some slight pressure with your other hand with the plastic frog. Begin turning the frog so that it winds onto the screw. Keep turning until the nose of the frog approaches the eye of the hook. Make sure to keep the loop of the screw-lock on the back side of the hook-eye as illustrated in the top photo. Stop turning when the body of the frog is positioned in such a way that the wire on the screw-lock forms a flat plane and at the same time lines up so that the point of the hook is situated directly beneath the body of the frog.

Grab the hook by the shaft side of the hook bend with two or three fingers of one hand and grab the frog with the other hand. Decide where the hook point is going to enter the body of the frog. Now bend the body of the frog in an arch-like fashion and at the same time, push the hook point at a right angle into the body of the frog along the slit designed especially for frog hooks. Push the hook point through, straighten out the body of the frog, and look at the positioning of the hook. The point should be resting completely above the skin of the plastic frog and pointing directly at the nose. Again, the loop on the screw-lock should line up in a flat plane against the nose of the frog and against the eye of the hook.

You can Texspose the point of the hook for added weedless capability, but I find that this isn't always necessary. To Texspose a hook, rig as above. Then once the point is resting against the skin of the frog, pull the upper body of the frog away from the hook point and allow it to slide back down over the tip of the point. This buries the point of the hook into the plastic keeping it away from anything it might get hung up on. When a fish bites, that force is still enough to dislodge the point and push the body of the frog down the hook as intended.

WACKY TIPS

One of the many positive aspects of being an angler is the camaraderie. No matter where you fish or what you fish for, someone at the boat dock will always be willing to lend an ear and share a tip or two. Sometimes they put you on the fish. Other times, they just feed you a load of malarkey. You never actually know until you put their claims to the test.

Last month, I got talking with a fellow angler on Caddo Lake about wacky rigging a soft plastic stickbait like a Senko. I told him I had a pack of circle hooks ready to go, but I didn't want to rip up the worms simply by casting them out. This fella recommended cutting a half strip of electrical tape and wrapping it around the center of the worm. Then run the hook through the tape, into the worm, and back out the other side. There are similar tips out there, but for those of you who want to save money, especially when the available products out there include O-rings and specially designed T-bar shaped worms, a piece of electrical tape really can put the other options to shame.

I tested this setup during my last outing on Cross. I never caught any fish and did not post any report, but I did throw my wacky rig. The tape held. It didn't slip off because the hook held it right where I left it. I did make sure that the two ends of the tape met at the top so it would not serve as a point of resistance on the fall if positioned at the side or the bottom.




There is one caveat. Don't pull the hook loose while the tape is still there. Cut the tape off first. Then remove your hook. You'll damage the worm in the process if you go yanking the hook free while it is still threaded through the tape. The barb simply won't easily slide back through the other direction.

Also, instead of using a half strip, I'd recommend cutting off a 1/4 sized strip. As long as the hook goes through the tape, you should be good. This will be my wacky rig setup from now on.

CAROLINA RIG

Here's another tip that really isn't much of a secret anymore. When you think about a Carolina rig, what comes to mind? Plastics, right? Let's step outside the box for a moment. Put something that floats and wiggles at the end of your C-rig. Yep, a crankbait. Hmm...Smithwick Rogue too. Do whatever you want with the leader, but make sure it's a suspending/floating lure. In other words, your leader length can vary. You want your lure to suspend at the depth that the fish are at. If you know the bass are right at the bottom, you may want a short leader. If the bass are suspended a few feet off the bottom, you will want to make the leader a little longer.

SENSES: Largemouth bass have the five major senses common to most animals: hearing, sight, smell, taste and touch. They have another sense, the lateral line, which is a series of sensitive nerve endings that extends from just behind the gill to the tail on each side of the fish. The lateral line can pick up underwater vibrations as subtle as a swimming baitfish. Largemouth bass hear with external ears located within the skull. They may be attracted by the ticking or popping sound of some artifical lures. But when they hear loud unfamiliar sounds, they usually swim to deeper water or cover. Bass can see in all directions, except directly below or behind. In clear water, they can see 30 feet or more. But in most bass waters, visibility is limited to 5 to 10 feet. Largemouths can also see objects that are above water. Largemouths smell through nostrils, or nares, on the snout. The nares are small passageways through which water is drawn and expelled without entering the throat. Like most fish, bass can detect minute amounts of scent in the water. Bass use their sense of touch to determine whether to reject or swallow an object. Sense of taste is not important to largemouth bass as it is to some fish species, because bass have few taste cells in their mouths.
FEEDING: Newly-hatched largemouths feed heavily on tiny crustaceans and other zooplankton until the bass reach 2 inches in length. Young largemouths eat insects and small fish, including smaller bass. Adult largemouths prey mostly on fish, but crayfish, frogs and insects are important foods in some waters. Wherever they live, bass rank high in the aquatic food chain. A bass 10 inches or longer has few enemies and will eat almost anything it can swallow. Because of its large mouth and flexible stomach, a bass can eat prey nearly half its own length. Bass inhale small foods. The bass opens its mouth quickly to suck in water and the food. It then forces the water out the gills while it either swallows or rejects the object. Bass usually grab large prey, then turn the food to swallow it headfirst. As the water warms, the metabolism of bass increases and they feed more often. Largemouths seldom eat at water temperatures below 50 degrees. From 50 to 60 degrees, feeding increases and from 68 to 80 degrees, they feed heavily. However, at temperatures above 80 degrees, feeding declines.
GROWTH: The amount bass grow in a year depends on the length of their growing season, or the number of days suitable for growth. The growing season in the south may last twice as long as it does in the north. Largemouths gain weight most quickly in water from 75 to 80 degrees. They do not grow in water colder than 50 degrees. Although bass in the south grow and mature faster, they rarely live as long as largemouths in colder, northern lakes. In southern waters, bass occasionally reach 10 years of age; in northern waters, bass may live as long as 15 years. Female bass live longer than males, so they are more apt to reach a trophy size. In one study, 30 percent of the females were 5 years or older, while only 9 percent of the males were 5 years or more.
SPAWNING: In spring, when inshore waters reach about 60 degrees, largemouth bass swim onto spawning grounds in shallow bays, backwaters, channels and other areas protected from prevailing winds. Spawning grounds usually have firm bottoms of sand, gravel, mud or rock. Bass seldom nest on thick layer of silt. Some spawning areas are in open water; others have sparse weeds, boulders or logs. Male bass may spend several days selecting their nest sites. The beds are usually in 1 to 4 feet of water, but may be deeper in clear water. The males seldom nest where they can see other nesting males. For this reason, beds are generally at least 30 feet apart, but may be closer if weeds, boulders, sunken logs or stumps prevent the males from seeing each other. Largemouths spawn when the water reaches 63 to 68 degrees and temperatures remain within this range for several days. Cold fronts may cause water temperatures to drop, which interrupts and delays spawning. A female bass lays from 2000 to 7000 eggs per pound of body weight. She may deposit all of her eggs in one nest or drop them at several different sites before leaving the spawning grounds. After spawning, the female recuperates in deep water, where she does not eat for 2 to 3 weeks. Alone on the nest the male hovers above the eggs, slowly fanning them to keep off the silt and other debris. He does not eat while guarding the eggs, but will attack other fish that swim near the nest. Sunfish often prey on bass eggs or newly hatched fry. In waters with large sunfish populations, the panfish can seriously hamper bass reproduction. Bass eggs hatch in only 2 days at 72 degrees, but take 5 days at 67 degrees. Cold weather following spawning will delay hatching. If the shallows drop to 50 degrees, the fry will not emerge for 13 days. At lower temperatures, the eggs will fail to develop. A severe cold front sometimes causes males to abandon the nest, resulting in a complete loss of eggs or fry. From 2000 to 12,000 eggs hatch from the typical nest. Of these, only 5 to 10 are likely to survive to reach 10 inches in length.

Choosing the Right Bass Fishing Lures
There is nothing quite like bass fishing. The thrill of seeing that bass grab your lure and then you have to react immediately to make sure that the bass does not get away. Then comes the struggle as you try to reel in the bass. Once you have the bass in your hands, you can proudly display it for all to see.
Of course, none of that will happen if you do not use the right bass fishing lures. It is essential that bass fishers understand the different types of bass fishing lures and know which lure to use in different situations.
So Many Lures to Choose From
Bass fishing lures come in a great variety. You can find more lures for bass than for any other type of fish. You will never have the time to be able to actually try out every lure out there, so Below is a brief description of the different bass fishing lures available.
Crank Bait Lures
Crank bait lures get their name because of they way they operate. Crank bait lures are connected to the line, the lure is then cranked back to the fishing boat. There are many options available for crank bait lures. Some lures float, others will sink to the bottom of the lake if the reel is not being cranked. Some other types stay suspended in the water. Crank bait lures are very popular with bass fishers.
Crank bait lures come in different varieties, and are optimized for the depth you will be fishing at. There are crank bait lures that are made for whether you plan on fishing in shallow, medium depth, or deep waters. These crank bait lures will have different sized lips.
Top Water Bait Lures
This type of lure floats on the water, even when the lure is being reeled in. However, top
water bait lures are noisy, which can scare away the bass you are trying to catch.
Spinner Bait Lures
Another type of bass fishing lure is the spinning bait lure. These types of lures are very popular with bass fishers. Spinner bait lures usually have bright colors and are shiny. These lures also frequently have metallic blades. These lures spin as they are reeled in, thus the name "spinner bait lures." The colors and the spinning motion attract the bass.
Find the Best for You
With the many different types of bass fishing lures available, it may be difficult to know exactly which one will work best for you. However, this discussion should give you some basis for helping decide which lures may be more useful in different situations. Remember, no lure can guarantee that you catch bass, sometimes it just comes down to
luck, but selecting a good lure will sure increase your chances of landing that king of
the pond.